Aug 27 2013

Lessons and Love from our Dog, Max

The scared light-brown dog, all skin and bones, hopped out of the rescue lady’s van in the parking lot of this non-descript strip mall. One of his legs was bandaged after the surgery. His brown eyes opened, fearful and bewildered, and he seemed to be searching for his owners.   “Max is totally in shock,” said Elizabeth from the rescue agency, in her South African accent. “For the past two weeks he looked in every door, every corner, every vista for his home, not knowing that he’ll never find it again.”   Abandoned by...

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May 28 2013

Crux Crush Interview

The lovely ladies of Crux Crush were kind enough to do an interview with me for their blog. They asked some very interesting questions that I am hardly, if ever, asked. To read their kind words, follow the link below...

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Climbing Back Video

I had the pleasure of working with my good friends at Big Up Productions on this recent video on my past few years with injuries and climbing. As I've written on this blog, I've had my fair share of injuries over the past handful of years, but my passion for climbing is just as strong as ever, whether I'm climbing 5.10 or 5.14. It's great to be able to team up with such great folks to document the thick and thin of being a professional climber. I hope you enjoy the video!   ...

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Apr 22 2013

Alex Honnold on Food

I recently caught up with my friend Alex Honnold on something other than his most recent climbing exploits. While he is constantly pushing the climbing envelope, Alex has also been going through a bit of a food and eating revolution. Many of you know that aside from climbing and everything encompassing the professional climbing lifestyle, a lot of my free time and interest is spent around food. I think I always fancied myself as someone who was really into food and health; but it wasn't until I started to spend a lot...

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Mar 29 2013

Moderate Climbing in Catalunya Spain

  I wrote up a short piece for Petzl on moderate climbing in the Catalunya region on Spain. Each of my two trips involved going to areas that had a ton of 5.10's, 5.11's and 5.12's. We all know that there are plenty of 5.15's at Oliana and Santa Linya, but if you are looking for sun filled Spanish limestone, these are some good places to start. Click on the link below.   Moderate Spanish Climbing areas...

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Mar 18 2013

Spanish Five Hang Send

My two hands crowded the partial jug of the limestone hole, shuffling back and forth trying to gain some relief of a pump. My forearms were full of lactic acid, barely able to close my fingers around the hold. My breath was rapid and my heart was racing. I knew I didn’t have much time before gravity won and I was hanging on the end of the rope. Contradictory thoughts swirled through my head: should let go due to the fear that I would hurt myself again? Or should I...

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Feb 19 2013

Climbing in Catalunya Spain and advice from Granny

The majority of my holidays have been spent in the Bay Area. With endless feet of snow in Yosemite and my inevitable knack to catch every cold or flu bug going around, it was a much more agreeable place to pass the gluttony of the holidays.   A huge benefit to placing myself in the vastly populated urban center is the close proximity to my family. I carry a huge guilt when it comes to time spent with my family, always feeling that I could be doing more. I wonder if other...

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Nov 26 2012

Hazel Findlay and the next generation of climbing.

A lot of acknowledgement goes to the previous generation, to the ones that paved the way for the up and comers. I know personally, I owe a huge amount of thanks and gratitude to Lynn Hill and Nancy Feagin. When I was 19, these two famous ladies invited myself and Kath Pyke to free climb big walls on the island of Madagascar. At that time, I knew next to nothing of multi pitch or trad climbing, but they took a chance on me. My sole trad lead at that point...

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Nov 19 2012

Mt. Starr King

Before the snow fell last week, Yosemite had a long stretch of beautiful weather. It meant high sierra peak bagging, long routes off the Valley floor, and mellow cragging days. One of my favorite adventures of the summer/fall was our trip up Mt. Starr King. I wrote a short story for Osprey on our adventure - enjoy!   Mt. Starr King short story ...

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Oct 23 2012

The Nose, Crowds, and Happiness

[caption id="attachment_20691" align="alignnone" width="768"] The Brazilian – epitomizing the spirit of adventure.[/caption]   For some years now climbing has been more than the actual act of climbing for me, it's been about the people in the community. Going climbing with good friends, traveling the world meeting new people, or taking first timers out to the crag or gym. These times can be as rewarding as sending the hardest thing possible.   The turning point came for me while working on free climbing the Nose of El Capitan. The crowds and clusters on the Nose...

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