Jun 21 2012

Projecting Tips

Ah the joys of banging your head against the wall on a project. Projecting can be frustrating at times, but with a bit of work, it can be more than worth it in the end. I wrote a piece for Outdoor Research on tips and suggestions that I have learned over the years. Hopefully these help you break through a plateau you are having. Please send me a message if you you have any other questions.   The link:   Projecting Tips...

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Jun 04 2012

Slabtastico!

I love slab climbing. I feel like I’m in an anonymous group, and that should have been spoken in a hushed voice. But, it’s true. I’m one of the few people left in this world who actually loves slab climbing. With the onslaught of huge climbing gyms, massive sport crags, and desperate boulder problems, it seems that slab climbing has become something of the past.   I grew up in a climbing gym with 90% vertical or less than vertical terrain. It was one of the first gyms in the country, and...

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Apr 23 2012

Shoulder Labrum Injury

Beth,    I found this post through googling around the internet about climbing shoulder injuries and I must say this was a very well written piece. Sorry to hear about all of your recent injury troubles - I hope you can find some peace from all of that soon!  I dislocated my shoulder in Mallorca almost 2 years ago, I was in grad school in the UK at the time, went to two physical therapists there who eventually cleared me to climb after about 8 weeks. However, since then it has been a...

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Apr 11 2012

Vegas

Tis the season for my annual trip to Vegas. Unlike most trips to Vegas of gambling, shows, lavish hotels and parties, I venture to sin city for the Red Rocks Rendezvous climbing festival. All the showy aspects of Vegas are replaced with climbers, clinics, burritos, wind and dust. Instead of all nighters, it's early to bed early to rise. It's hardly the decadent buffet at the Belagio, but honestly I'd take being outside for fourteen hours over sitting in front of a slot machine any day. Perhaps I'll find myself...

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Apr 06 2012

Injuries: Taking it slow

Hi Beth,   Any chance you might write a blog post on what you've been up to in the injury recovery department lately? Are you still doing things such as therapy exercises, meeting with doctors, and generally easing your way back in to climbing more and more frequently?   All the best, Max     Hi Max,   Thank you so much for your message and checking in. Physical therapy exercises are still a part of my routine. I now look at them not only as a way to recover but also as preventative. They've become sort of like brushing...

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Mar 21 2012

Sugar, Sleep and Vegan Shortbread Cookies.

I was born with an unending sweet tooth. I would eat row after row of Oreo's, Mint Milano's and Chips Ahoy. This makes my parents look like they stocked their kids with nothing but sugary garbage, but sadly that is not true. I would have to leave our house and venture to my friends' houses to fill my sugary habit. My sweet tooth has followed me all the way into adulthood like a loyal dog, never leaving my side. However, I am sad and happy to say that I have...

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Mar 15 2012

Collateral Ligament Injuries

Beth, Thanks for the injury related post. It is interesting to hear of all the injuries that pro climbers sustain. It is not limited to us amateur climbers. I saw you mention an injury to your collateral ligament. I was wondering if you could expand on this in a future blog post. I am currently suffering from a collateral ligament injury to my middle finger PIP joint, and I haven't been able to find much information on this injury, related to rehabilitation beyond splinting and buddy taping. How much time...

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Feb 28 2012

Indian Summer

It seems that every year Yosemite gets a little gift from the weather gods and is graced with a stint of Indian summer. Usually, it's a time when I feel like being a local is cheating. Spring like conditions provide shorts and t-shirt weather, with hardly a soul in sight. Some years it is more welcome than others, but regardless I can't remember a year when I haven't gone down to the Cookie in January or February and cursed myself for overdressing.   Last year I learned my lesson when I met...

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Feb 22 2012

Injuries

I recently did a photo shoot for Outdoor Research along the Northern California coast. I had the pleasure of spending two days with fellow Outdoor Research ambassadors, Shingo Ohkawa and Graham Zimmerman. I had met Shingo several years back in Patagonia, while on a hiking trip with my dad. Yes, you read it correctly, hiking. I flew all the way down to Patagonia and didn't even take my harness. Luckily, I know myself well enough to recognize that I would have been miserable and terrible at climbing there, so I embraced another sort...

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Jan 01 2012

Mortar Rock Christmas

I couldn't wait for Christmas as a kid. I wonder if any kid can actually wait for Christmas? No school, presents, the permission to rip, destroy and mangle wrapping papper, endless playtime, and desserts that go on forever, it seems like heaven to any six year old. Without fail, I would be the kid that slept in front of the fire with cookies and milk inches from my nose hoping to see Santa, only to wake up flummoxed that he had come and gone without notice. I think if I...

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